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Mk1 or Mk2.
I am only starting this procedure from the point
when you have
the valve
assembly out of the buddy bottle (Stock). This is mainly because I am
still
having bad dreams about
Thread
Locker, Gas Torches and Melted Seals.
The procedure is much the same for the MK1 and the
MK2 valves.
The seal on
the MK2 valve is a bit wider and it should have angled faces that match
the
valve seat. It looks like a fat version of the MK1 seal after lapping,
seeDiagram 1. The MK2 seal should therefore require less work than the
MK1
seal. Please be aware that I have not tested this procedure on a MK2
valve.
Discalamer.
If you wish to make any use what ever of this
procedure you do
so entirely
at your own risk. You must take full and sole responsability for any
loss,
damage or injury that may arise for whatever reason from your use of
any
infromation you find here.
Equipment.
- A drill hand will do but slow power drill is
better.
- A compress air source - pump or bottle.
- Brasso liquid metal polish - this polish is
less abrasive
than most chrome
cleaners.
- Silicone spray - Obtainable from a car
accessory shop.
- Silicone Grease - Obtainable from Gun Shops,
Dive Centres
or possibly car
accessory shops.
Safety Note.
This procedure requires the use of a drill and
Brasso. Safety
glasses should
be worn throughout and all power tools treated with respect.
Care should be taken at all times when handling
compressed
air or
pressurised vessels. If there is and doubt about the fitness
for
use of a
pressure vessel or its connections DO NOT use it. Have it
tested
and use it
only if the test centre passes it as fit for use.
General Notes and Cautions.
- When working with PCP internal components or
were high
pressure air is
present normal oils must not be used they may explode.
- Dust, grit and hairs must be scrupulously
removed even a
single hair can
cause a valve to leak.
- If any grit or dirt is present during Lapping
Step 7 the
valve seat and
the valve seal may be seriously damaged.
- "O" rings and seals should be assembled with
just enough
Silicone grease to make them shiny. The Silicone spray seems to work as
an
alternative.
Diagram 1.
Lapping.
- Take the valve assembly to bits making careful
note of the
way it fits
together so you can reassemble it later.
- Slide the valve stem through the valve seat as
shown in
Diagram 1.
- Squirt a little Silicone spray into the open
end of the
valve seal.
- Push the valve seal onto the valve stem.
- Mount the valve seat carefully in a soft jawed
vice.
- Shake the Brasso and pour a little of it into
the valve
seat. Carefully
grasp the valve seal with the drill chuck and start the drill.
- While the seal and valve stem are slowly
rotating press
the seal gently
into the valve seat. Repeat as required until the seal matches the
valve seat.
The Brasso acts as a grinding agent and reshape the valve seal to
exactly match
the valve seat.
- Pull the valve seal off the stem and remove
the stem for
the seat.
Notes.
At Lapping Step 7 take care to keep everything
lined up, do
not tilt the
drill or valve stem.
You may have noticed that I have not said how long you need to work at
Lapping
Step 8.
That's because this stage is only finished when the assembled valve
holds
pressure.
Testing the Seal.
- Clean all valve parts including the steel
valve housing.
It is imperative
that all trace of dirt, grit, Brasso and grease be removed before
assembling
the valve.
- Once all the parts are clean spray then with
Silicone spay.
Take care not
to blow the seal and the "O" rings away.
- Assemble the valve and try blowing through it
with the "top
hat"
submerged in a little water. If it holds pressure, dry it and fit it to
the
buddy bottle. Remember the to fit the valve/bottle "O" ring first.
- Test again, filling it from your air source to
about 50
psi. If it still
dose not leak you should be able to fit it to the gun and use it.
- If it fails to hold pressure in Step 3 or Step
4 then you
will have to go
back to Lapping Step 1 above.
Gunpower recommend using a thread locker on the
valve/bottle
tread so the
valve will not screw out of the bottle if the bottle were ever to be
completely
drained of air while it was on the gun. If you choose to use it do so
only AFTER TESTING and ensure that the bottle is
empty before
any attempt is
made to remove the valve.
Links.
Gunpower.
Airforce.
Special Mentions.
Thanks to Bob Craske for telling me how to do this
in the
first place and
for good advice.
Thanks also to Hector Medina for keeping up the good work on the
Stealth Forum
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